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In the Media
Destination Magazine
It’s hard to imagine a sweeter travel experience than that offered by a tour of the Italian region of Tuscany. Using Florence as a base, Lisa Doust explored the glorious countryside and historical villages in this sublime corner of the world.
Most people agree that it would be almost impossible to avoid falling in love with Florence – the exceptional architecture, countless works of art, quaint cobbled streets and lively atmosphere in the open piazzas conspire to seduce you at every turn. And while it may not boast the crumbling ruins of Rome or fairytale setting of Venice, the Tuscan capital serves as a remarkable monument to the Renaissance period and has more than its fair share of beauty, romance and cultural riches.
In Florence you can forget about driving for a few days, as this is one city that can be thoroughly explored on foot. It only takes an hour or two to get your bearings, and all of the prime tourist sites are in close proximity. Use the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge) as your landmark – from this beautiful vantage point you can gaze out over the river Arno and determine where you are in relation to the several other bridges that stretch across the river and divide the city in half
From the bridge it’s a short walk to Piazza della Signoria, where some of the world’s finest sculptures attract an incredible number of tourists each day. Here you’ll see the fabulous Fountain of Neptune, created in 1575 by Bartolomeo Ammannati, and a copy of Michelangelo’s David, commissioned in 1501, when the artist was just 26 (the real thing is safely housed at the nearby Accademia dell’Arte del Disegno).
Art lovers will find themselves in heaven at the Uffizi, tucked just off to the side of the imposing Palazzo Vecchio fortress and featuring over 1800 outstanding artworks.
Undoubtedly the city’s finest piece of art is the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, known simply as the ‘Duomo’ due to its impressive dome, which rises majestically above the Florentine rooftops and can be seen from almost every street. Set aside a couple of hours to tour the cathedral and save climbing the bell tower until sunset – it’s a magical sight.
Style Wise Window shopping in Florence is a treat, with smart displays setting the tone for the city’s chic aesthetic. Shabby attire looks completely out of place here – even the carabinieri (police) wear designer uniforms. All of the big Italian labels – Gucci, Pucci, Ferragamo and Versace – are represented on Via de’ Tornabuoni and Via della Vigna Nuova, and you’ll find plenty of funky stores on Via Calimala and Via dei Calzaiuoli. For a relaxed and satisfying shopping experience, head just beyond the Duomo toward San Lorenzo Markets, where well-crafted leather goods are the chief attraction. One of the best stalls on the strip is KAS Pelletteria (Via dell’ Ariento 15/r), which features a stylish and diverse range of leather jackets. Jameel Ahmed, the ultra-charming salesman at KAS, knows all there is to know about leather and will send you off with a fine-quality jacket that fits like a glove, along with a few top tips on what to see and do in the city. Born in Kashmir and raised in Pakistan, Jameel has lived in Florence for the past 10 years and says the best thing about the city is encountering visitors from all over the globe on a daily basis. “The incredible mix of nationalities here at any one time gives Florence its unique atmosphere – you can hear five or six languages being spoken as you walk through the city centre,” he reveals. “It’s a very beautiful and exciting place.”
Drive. Eat. Enjoy Once you’ve enjoyed the many charms of Florence, hire a car and head into the countryside, where the winding roads lead to all manner of Tuscan treasures. Driving in Italy can be daunting at first, as other cars tend to get very close, but once you’ve relaxed into the swing you’ll appreciate the good roads and spectacular views out across rolling hills, vineyards, stately villas and walled villages. Siena is a cruisy one-and-a-half-hour drive south of Florence, and it’s worth spending a day here. This World Heritage Listed site features fine examples of gothic architecture and one of Italy’s most unique piazzas – the enormous, shell-shaped il Campo, where the famous Palio (horse race) takes place each summer. Just a short drive from Siena, back towards Florence, turn off at Poggibossi and follow the signs to San Gimignano. This small but perfectly formed walled village is famed for its medieval architecture and many towers, which can be spotted from miles away. For a unique tour of southern Tuscany, look up John Bird of Tuscan Events. Australian born and a former hairdresser to the stars (he tamed the tresses of Sophia Loren, Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor), John is a gracious and knowledgeable host who has spent 35 years holidaying in Tuscany and has a passion for everything from the region’s history, art and architecture and to its fabulous food and wine. John took me on a wondrous whirlwind tour of villages, restaurants, churches and gardens I may have otherwise overlooked. Our first stop was La Foce, a magnificent property in the Val d’Orcia region. Originally built in the 15th century, La Foce was purchased in 1924 by the well-known author Iris Origo and her husband Antonio. The pair created amazing gardens and turned the vast property into a thriving community by restoring its farmhouses and building a school, kindergarten and day hospital. The glorious gardens at La Foce offer a full panorama of the Orcia Valley, its surrounding mountains and the long and solitary winding road bordered by cypress trees often seen in postcards. The farmhouses have since become holiday homes and you can enjoy lessons in Tuscan cooking, wine-tasting tours and visits to historical sites, all of which John can organise. Over two days we called in to several walled villages, including the wonderfully tiny Monticchiello, renowned for the political plays it runs each summer, and Pienza, a Renaissance village perched on a hilltop and designed as a model of ideal living. Pienza is also known for its pecorino (sheep’s cheese), and this is where you’ll find L’Enoteca di Ghino, home to an impressive selection of the world’s finest wines. We also took a tour of several of the region’s thermal villages, including Bagno Vignoni, just 20 minutes by car from Pienza and a popular holiday destination since Roman times. People come to the area from near and far to let the healing thermal waters wash over them at the numerous local spas. It goes without saying that the food, coffee and desserts served throughout Tuscany are exceptional – even the most humble of venues dish up fare so flavoursome that every bite literally melts in your mouth As we ate, drank, listened to live music and made our merry way around the region, John explained all there was to know about each spot and I came away feeling thoroughly enriched by the experience. My conclusion was that life in Tuscany isn’t just sweet; it’s perfect!
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